Beijing in a Blur

Four days. That is what we estimated we would need to truly enjoy China's capital city. The Forbidden City, Tienanmen Square, The Great Wall of China, and Mao's corpse...at LEAST four days.

Well...we are going to try to do it in two. After three hours and eight train station/ticket agent desks we found out that the trains to Ulaan Bataar only leave on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays. The former is too early, the latter is too late, which means the middle is juuuussssst right. What does that mean?

Well, we did the Forbidden City and the Square yesterday and, somehow, was able to buy our train tickets to Mongolia, see the corpse, and visit the Great Wall of China. Kyle and I joked that if we were able to do all these things in less than 48 hours it would be a miracle. Well, based on the following photos, we made the miracle happen.






Final thoughts on Beijing...I don't have much to say. It isn't a bad place. It definitely has more character than Shanghai, but still maintains the cosmopolitan feel of a capital city. Add a dash of its Imperial past, a spoonful of its communist present, and a helping of the West, and you have what the world is about to be exposed to in August.

That's Beijing!

Let's see...what else...ahhh, Xi'an. Right...that ended well. The Terracotta Army was fascinating, highlighted by the 70's era film showed just prior to entering the statue pits. The fight scenes from the film were phenomenal...which is what you get when there are 1.2 billion potential actors to choose from.



In terms of China, that is about it. I suppose our story in China deserves an epilogue of some sort...so here goes: since arriving in Hong Kong I have traveled nearly 3,000 miles by train. That is clear across the United States. Really though that is just the start. Kyle and I purchased a Eastern Europe Lonely Planet today. We marveled at the fact that in a little over a month, assuming all goes well, we will be cruising the streets of Eastern, and, likely, Western Europe. That is a LOOONNNGGG way from China. But it is exciting to think of what lies ahead.

Anyhow, back to China. I have enjoyed it here. I have find myself giddy on a daily basis thinking of what I am presently experiencing and what I have before me. It is a great day when one wakes up knowing that the next few hours will consist of the best of Beijing and the Great Wall of China. Even the train rides have been wonderful. Watching the countryside roll by really is a great way to travel. Have the spaces been cramped? Sure. Have the miles gotten long? A bit...but it is ok. I just laugh when I think about how wonderful this opportunity to travel through this part of the world at this moment in time. There is a lot I will miss about China. The obvious being dumplings and steamed buns. However, I will also miss the genuine smiles and the juxtaposition between the country's rich history and its current aspirations. Are there things I won't miss? Yes. Surging crowds. There are times when it has been more than evident that there are 1.2 billion people in this country. I also won't miss the coughing, hacking, or spitting. If you know what I am talking about you can sympathize.

A few final notes:
1.) A quick story: I am trying to collect all of my train tickets from Hong Kong to Europe. Everything was going great until yesterday morning when the guard demanded to see my ticket on the way out of Beijing. One should note that hoards of Chinese and westerners were pouring from the exits, so her singling me out was a surprise. What was even a greater surprise was that, despite my pleas, she took my ticket, tore it up, smiled, and then motioned for me to swiftly move along. For that, I would say Communism won the battle. However, judging by the number of McDonalds', Starbucks, and KFCs there are in this country, I would say Capitalism is winning the war.

2.) The translation errors between Chinese and English are hilarious. The phrase 'lost in translation' aptly applies to China. I could have taken dozens of photos of all the misspellings and weird translations I have come across over the past couple weeks...but I didn't. I figure my Mandarin isn't much better.

3.) In nine hours I will board a train to Mongolia. Crazy. I have been a lot of places, but Mongolia is waaayyyy out there. It will take us more than a day on the train to reach Ulaan Bataar...but once we are there, it is going to be amazing.

Stay tuned and look for more jumping photos throughout the journey.

Knocking on Heaven's Door and other hits from mainland China

I really only travel for a few reasons. One is because I like collecting ink stamps on paper. Another is my love of plane, train, bus, and ferry tickets. Yet another is because it gives me an excuse not to work, rather filling my day with taking photos and meandering through foreign cities. And finally, it is because every once in awhile I stumble into a situation that leaves me speechless. These moments and events are serendipitous in nature and are those I tend to recount years later.

For five minutes Wednesday night I had another one of those moments.

Think Clapton...and Guns n' Roses. Think bright lights, big stage, and a live band. Think adoring fans. Now...think Paul...and Kyle. On a whim Kyle and I decided to leave the bright lights and KFCs of Shanghai for the equally bright lights but fewer KFCs of Hangzhou. Hangzhou is about an hour and a half by train outside of Shanghai. It is known for its beautiful lake and is a nice escape for many Shanghai citizens. And now, I do believe, it is known for the Kyle and Paul show. After dinner on Wednesday evening, Kyle and I decided to find a nice quiet bar to have a couple drinks. What we found was 1999, a new bar along the lake. We stepped in and were immediately greeted by an army of waiters and hostesses. Over the next few hours the following happened:
1.) We drank a lot of beer.
2.) Then we drank more.
3.) We were served a very fancy fruit bowl, mixed nuts, french fries, and more beer.
4.) We met some very nice Chinese people.
5.) We were asked to sing a song with the band.

That's right... What would you choose if you were asked to sing a song with a live Chinese band on a stage in a bar? We chose Clapton. But really, the choice was easy since the band mainly played Clapton, and for some reason a ton of Shania Twain. We were a hit. Sure, we were off key and (even though we had the words) we missed some of our cues, but we killed it. Oh, and we also gave a shoutout to all our Berkeley friends and those who couldn't be on stage with us.

The result of the evening:
1.) A story I am proud to share with my mother.
2.) A horrendous hangover (sorry Mom).

But it was worth it.

As I type I am sitting in Xian, which is a city in the middle-ish of China. Xian is known for many things, but two of them are most notable. The first is that it was the starting (and by default, ending) point of the Silk Road. The second is the Terracotta Army. The army is made up of thousands of unique statues said to guard the tomb of a really famous, really powerful, really rich old guy. (I would insert his name but I don't have it handy). So, tomorrow we are going to check out this army, which I am very excited about. However, today...well today was another great day. Let's just say there is nothing better than beating the Xi'an city wall land speed record while blaring Hall and Oates from the back of a tandem bike.



The road to this point has been an entertaining one. Last time I wrote I was in Shanghai and not impressed. Well, maybe now I am a little more impressed with the city. There are a few great things about Shanghai. First, it has been and will be the crossroads of international cultures in China. It gets points for that. Second, from the historical Bund to the newly developed Pudong area, the city boasts remarkable architecture. Third, they have the remarkable ability to straighten even straight hair...but you will pay for it. Finally, the tourist tunnel...enough said. So my thoughts on Shanghai...eh, I liked it. Would I say it is full of culture and history? No. But does it have good steamed buns and dumplings? Yes.



One more thing...Kyle and I met up with Edmond in Shanghai. He is there studying Mandarin. It was a lot of fun to sit on a city street eating dumplings with both my Berkeley roommates. 3128 Forever!



That is about it. Overall, I just have to say that Kyle and I are doing well. Now, I know it is early, but I think we are going to dominate Asia, Eurasia, and Europe.

PS - Kyle and I think we heard the official song of the Olympics. We think it is the official song because it was played (rather, blared) repeatedly on our sixteen hour train ride from Shanghai to Xian. Our thoughts: the single would probably not be the best iTunes purchase you have made this year.

Hi from Shanghai

Corny, I know.

Let's start with this: Shanghai is what China aspires to be. I do believe what China is building here is a model city. They have cultivated a a world-facing metropolis that mixes Chinese culture and tradition with high finance and trade. And, judging by the number of iPod toting teenagers, high rise shopping malls, and Buicks, they are doing a damn good job of it.

That is Shanghai.

As of right now I am not entirely impressed. Sure, I appreciate the excellent subway system, the wide boulevards, and the fast food chains, but for some reason the city seems to be lacking something. Now, before all you Shanghaiophiles call for my head let me mention one thing: I have only been here for two days. And of those two days, nearly all of it has been spent near Nanjing road and the Bund. I really haven't gotten out to see the city...but I will do so today. Who knows, maybe my Shanghai tune will change.

On another note: my traveling buddy Kyle arrived yesterday. It was great to see a familiar face walk through the doors of the hostel. For the next 9-10 weeks, Kyle will walk side-by-side in search of fun, adventure, and Coors Light. While the former two should be easy to find, the later may be more difficult. But we will not be detered fro accomplishing our goals. So stay tuned...

That is all I have for now. I imagine I will ammend this entry later today to reflect my cultural experiences and my consumption of dumplings and steamed buns.

High on Hong Kong...and Chemical Toilets

I have a headache. It could be from the jetlag. It could also be from the beer and scotch I drank last night. It is possible it is due to the fact I haven't had my caffeine for the day. But I doubt any of those are the real reason. I suspect the cause of this particular headache can be attributed to the fact I sat next to the airplane bathrooms for thirteen straight hours on my fight from SFO to Hong Kong. Even though I have been in HK for nearly 24 hours I can still smell the chemical toilets and United Airlines branded air freshener.



HK...I came here about a year ago to visit two of my friends, Tim and Dawn. That trip was fun, exciting, and documented in a posting called The Hong Kong Triad. Thus, for a rundown of what HK has to offer please feel free to read that post. Instead of rehashing the sights and sounds of HK, I am going to quickly discuss something else: what in the hell am I doing in HK? Good question.

The answer: Hong Kong is the starting point of what will be a two and a half month adventure across the Asia and Europe. Starting in Hong Kong, it is my plan to travel through China, Mongolia, Russia, and Eastern Europe, finally ending somewhere with a cheap flight back to the US. Right how those locations are looking like either Istanbul, Berlin, Frankfurt, or London. A few things should be noted:

1.) The trip will, as long as it is possible and practical, be completed overland. This means trains, buses, boats, horses, camels, and my own two feet will be used over the next ten or so weeks to get me from Hong Kong to Europe.

2.) I will be completing the trip with Kyle Sonnonstine, my roommate and fellow lover of the Graduate from Berkeley. James Platts, another Berkeleyan and the coolest Republican I know will also be traveling with us for awhile, mainly through Monglolia and Russia.

3.) There is a good chance we will end up in a jail somewhere.

Yes, I know it is a very long trip from the southern tip of Asia to the European continent. And yes, I also know that I don't speak Cantonese, Manderin, Mongolian, Russian, or any language in Eastern Europe. But it is ok. With a little patience, luck, and pointing to things, the trip should prove itself to be a grand adventure.



So that's it. I look forward to writing every once in awhile, and posting photos when I have the opportunity. Oh, and I look forward to staying out of various post-Soviet Bloc jails as well.