Guatemala: Small but Mighty

I am not sure what it is about blogging that makes it so easy to put off. "Oh, I am exhausted! I will just do it tomorrow," tends to be my most common excuse. But then tomorrow turns into next week and before I know it I stand on the precipice of returning home to the States. So goes my life as a blogger. But I am here now. And while I had no intention to blog when I sat down to check my e-mail twenty minutes ago, I have decided that it is time to do so. I am feeling good (and sentimental), I am full from lunch (and gummy bears), and I have nothing better to do in the medium-sized highland town of Coban, so here goes:

It has been a long trip. Both in distance covered and experiences had, these three weeks have proven to be some of the most exciting and challenging of my young travel career. As I mentioned in my last blog entry, I was welcomed to the country by some of Guatemala's finest. Finest thieves that is. Initially I was jaded and cynical; questioning whether or not Guatemala would redeem itself. But it has in fine fashion.

Since my last entry I have criss-crossed the country, taking in both mainstream sites and roads less traveled. I have found that each corner of Guatemala is different both geographically and culturally. However, good food, a warm smile, and flavorful culture seem to universally tie the country together.

So...the trip. A couple days after I arrived my friend Tayllor landed from Boston. While her luggage didn't quite make it at the same time, we found solace in a bucket of Gallo beers and the second half of the Colorado-Alabama football game. The next morning, bags in hand, we left Guatemala City for New Years in Antigua. What we found among the brightly colored colonial architecture and cobblestone streets was a party only a latin american country could throw. Endless fireworks (some fired from the bodies of men), live music, and the country's best street food helped us ring in the new year. Sometimes it is the unexpected that is the most exciting of all. For us, such an unexpected and vibrant party was a wonderful way to welcome 2008.

After Antigua the road through Guatemala was long, winding, and covered by various forms of public transportation. From brightly colored American school buses (also known as "Chicken Buses"), to dilapidated Greyhounds and water "collectivos," we moved from one beautiful locale to another nearly every other day. Panajachel along the banks of Lake Atitlan, Livingston on the Caribbean coast, Flores and the Mayan ruins of Tikal, and Semuc Champey, arguably the most beautiful location in Guatemala. Each of these stops were intriguing and exciting in their own way.

Since detailing each would be obnoxious and time consuming (for me to write and you to read), I am just going to list a few highlights from those locations.

- Fireworks, fireworks, fireworks, and more fireworks.
- Roasting marshmallows on lava flows along the flanks of Pacaya, one of Guatemala's active volcanos.
- Watching monkeys go crazy in Panajachel.
- Walking five kilometers along the Caribbean to the Seven Altars near Livingston, only to take a wrong turn 200 meters from the waterfalls. We continued walking for another half hour or so, eventually finding ourselves on some random farmer's land. Luckily for us he was more than willing to give us proper directions. In return he was able to laugh at a couple dumb gringos.
- Sitting alone atop Temple Five early in the morning at Tikal. Without another tourist in sight Tayllor and I were able to enjoy the haunting quiet of the Mayan ruins in the early morning.
- Being led by a fifteen year old through underground caves at Semuc Champey. Equiped with only a candle (and our guide's headlamp), we explored underground, water-filled caves. We climbed through waterfalls, jumped into underground lagoons, and tried to swim with our candles held above the water. It was one of my favorite experiences of the trip.
- Hitch hiking from near Semuc Champey to Lanquin in a food-filled delivery truck. The driver warned us that he had one stop to make. That stop turned into some very memorable manual labor. We completely unloaded the goods from a huge truck to a woman's house along the route. Rice, detergent, tomatoes, garlic, flour, cane alcohol...you name it we schleped it down a hill from the truck to the house. But we loved it. Not only did we get a free ride down the mountain, but we had a wonderful and memorable time along the way.
- Getting sick...because it isn't latin america without it.

Then Tayllor left.

A couple hours after we parted ways I headed for Xela, my original destination before being robbed. After ten hours of travel, during which I was miserably sick, I finally stumbled (literally) into the Black Cat Hostel. It was there that I recouperated from my two weeks of frantic travel and also met up with my friend Steve from Berkeley. Also, in a completely bizarre coincidence, I ran into Lisa Roberts, a friend from Fort Collins whom I hadn't seen since graduating from Rocky Mountain High School in 1998.

Xela was a wonderful place to relax and recharge. While there Steve and I took in a soccer game (during which we thought we won a raffle), climbed another volcano (a vertical mile up the side of Santa Maria), and threw a little impromptu jenga party at the hostel. But our feet got itchy and it was time to part ways again. Steve headed to Tikal and I decided to leave the gringo trail for a couple days. Thus, I did so by spending the past couple days micro-bus hopping from Huehuetenango through the central highlands to Coban. Along the route I was treated to some of the country's most beautiful scenary and a small town named Uspantan which I will never forget. Why will I never forget it? Mainly because it was idyllically set among fog shrouded hills and boasted live music and a small fireworks show which lit the small, community filled square in the middle of town. Neighbors chatting, kids laughing, food cooking, and music playing...words honestly can't describe how magical the evening was in that quaint village.

But now I am in Coban. I was here a few days ago, and am staying in the same place as then. Early tomorrow morning I will return to Guate to pick up my new passport and take in what little the capital has to offer. Then what? Home. I leave early Saturday morning for the States and will be home in time to drink beers at The Graduate for all those who are interested in doing so.

Whew...that wasn't so bad. Now it is time to take off, grab some "street meat", drink a beer, read my book, and prepare for another bus ride through the country.

Until next time...